Four wheel aligner compatibility

Published:  03 October, 2018

The Bluetooth Pro Wheel Aligner from Absolute Alignment is fully wireless to ensure fast and easy use, and can be used with four and two-post lifts and in-ground wheel-free scissor lifts. The direct contact charging and calibration system means the whole wheel alignment package is 100% cable free for a safe workshop.  Absolute Alignment supplies an array of wheel alignment equipment to suit workshops of all sizes, and is the only UK provider with a full range of Bluetooth wheel aligners suitable for cars and commercial vehicles – including those equipped with the latest generation of ADAS.


www.absolutealignment.co.uk

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    Hunter’s fully-automatic Revolution WalkAway tyre changer offers 80 seconds of unattended bead breaking and demounting, meaning that technicians can perform other tasks such as wheel balancing while other tyres within a set are being demounted. Indeed, with the new WalkAway tyre changer, Hunter estimates that the process of changing and balancing a complete set of four identical wheels and tyres is 25% faster than traditional methods.The new Revolution WalkAway is ideal for workshops who are changing a large number of end-of-life tyres in sets of four or two of same size tyre and wheel assemblies.

  • Glowing, going, gone! 

    I decided to share this case study for my first article because what I expected to be a simple job turned into something a little more complex and gave me an opportunity to study a and learn about a system that until now I’d probably taken for granted.

    We were presented with a 2010 Skoda Fabia 1.6 TDi by a car dealer who had recently taken it in part exchange. The engine management was light illuminated, however with no other symptoms. The previous owner told the dealer that the MIL had been on for around a year and her local garage had failed to repair it. It had also recently been recalled for the ‘Dieselgate’ VAG emission software update. The dealer told the customer there were DTCs stored for the glow plugs and that they needed replacing to which she declined as she was sure they had previously been replaced. We already had a reasonable amount of vehicle history to start with, and were ready to take a look.

    Voltage and current
    A code read revealed DTCs for all four glow plugs being open circuit and a glow plug module communication fault. A quick inspection of the engine revealed that the glow plugs were not that old and also there was a new glow plug module fitted, plus an old one found in the boot.

    While checking the resistance of the glow plugs may tell us something, measuring the voltage and current with an amps clamp paints a much clearer picture. The oscilloscope was connected and the ignition was cycled. The screen capture revealed a healthy 12 volts for around 10 seconds then pulsed at random, however there was zero amps flowing (on all glow plugs). It was clear the plugs had gone open circuit for some reason so they were removed for inspection. It was then we noticed that the heater plugs fitted were rated at 4.4 volts, so now we know why they burnt out! Could they be the wrong glow plugs? Could it be the wrong control module? We checked and found the part numbers were correct.

    At this point it was crucial that we understood exactly how the system is wired and how it should operate. By studying a wiring diagram we were able to plan how we were going to test the system (see image 1). Starting with the power supplies and ground, it is always best to test a circuit in its normal environment which means we really need the current load of working heater plugs. If we were to fit new heater plugs at this point there was a high risk of them being damaged which is expensive so we substituted four headlamp bulbs instead. The fuse rating for the circuit was 50A so with a quick bit of maths we calculated the current required for four bulbs was safe. The main live feed, ground and ignition switched live were all good so we moved on to the two communication wires that link directly to the PCM.  

    If the PCM can log individual codes for each glow plug then we know that it must have a two-way communication system. Scoping both wires with the module connected and disconnected showed us that there was clearly a command signal from the PCM and although it was random and rather messy (see image 2), the glow module responded directly by activating the glow plugs at the same rhythm.

    The second wire had totally different digital signal which had to be the feedback to the PCM. The noise and irregularity of the command signal was clearly an issue so we checked the wiring back to the PCM and with the aid of the good old-fashioned wriggle test the fault was identified as a poor connection in the PCM harness connector. The connection was cleaned and the system retested which revealed a much healthier scope pattern and the communication DTC was cleared (see image 3).

    Reliable repair
    At this point we could have fitted new glow plugs but to save unnecessary expense we wanted to make sure it was a reliable repair so we decided to monitor the system with the faulty glow plugs still installed and the leads connected to the bulbs. We started by monitoring all four glow plug voltages on the oscilloscope. Using the scan tool to activate the glow plugs showed us that the 4.4 volts is achieved by pulse width modulation at a duty cycle of around 13% with a frequency of around three times per second. What was more interesting was that all four plugs were individually triggered in a sequence (see image 4) so there is never more than one glow plug energised at any one time. The logic behind this is that it makes a substantial reduction in power consumption.

    Our next test was to observe the control strategy of the PCM from a cold start and warm-up phase. The objective here was to ensure that there was no software related issues. From the point of key on there is a 1.5 second supply phase to heat the plug as fast as possible then temperature is maintained by the 13% duty control.

    Decade box
    Of course, after a period of time, once the engine starts to warm up the system turns off and the communication wires go quiet. If you want to test it more than once then you’d have to wait for the engine to cool so to save time we connected a decade box in place of the engine coolant temperature sensor and by observing the coolant temperature in serial data on the scan tool we were able to select a variety of resistances that would represent low temperatures and fool the PCM into commanding glow plug activation.

    The decade box has proved to be an extremely useful tool really is a must in any diagnostic technician’s tool box. It is great for substituting in place of certain sensors and components to check the integrity of a circuit or to observe an ECU responding to a variation in signal (resistance).

    The final test was an observation of voltage over current on one glow plug. The other interesting thing we noticed was the simplicity of the digital feedback signal. By unplugging each glow in turn you could see the pattern in the signal change and when all were connected and working it was a regular pattern.

    Summing up
    Clearly more time was spent on this job than necessary and the labour charge remained fair. In a busy workshop it is hard to find spare time for these situations but my point is that sometimes sacrificing a lunch hour or staying behind for half an hour gives an opportunity to learn so much which can only aid you in speeding up diagnostic time and process on future jobs.

    Winning the Top Technician 2017 competition was unexpected. It has not only introduced me to some very inspiring, like-minded people, but has also taught me you can never have too much training, whether it’s self-training like in this instance or on a professional training course. There are some fantastic training companies offering a variety of courses available now. Also, some of the best and most respected all regularly write for Aftermarket!  





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  • In the heat of the fault  

    At the workshop we cover all kinds of vehicles, old, new, big and small but with all these vehicles we need up to date diagnostic equipment to be able locate faults within the electrical system.
        
    In the workshop this summer was a 2009 Volkswagen Golf that had an intermittent issue which meant the car would go into limp mode, the cruise control was disabled and the climate control wouldn’t work. Understandably in the weather we were having the lack of air conditioning was a major concern to the customer. No one wants to be without air conditioning in 30Cº.
        
    I plugged in the trusty diagnostics reader and came up with four faults. These included turbo boost sensor, manifold pressure, throttle pedal position sensor and ‘fuel system
    too rich’.
        
    In my experience cars can throw up all kinds of trouble codes even when there is no issue with that part. I wouldn’t say some manufacturers are more troublesome than others but if a light does appear on the dash it’s best to get it checked out as soon as possible.

    Issues
    I cleared the fault codes and told the customer to see how it drove and if the issues resolved themselves. The customer had the car for just an hour before they called and said that the problem had reoccurred, as much as this is a pain for the customer I always clear the faults and see if it happens again rather than changing unnecessary sensors. I got the Golf back into the workshop and once again plugged the computer in, which brought up one code. This was the throttle position sensor. A quick call to VW and a discussion with their parts people showed that this particular issue can lead to the cruise and climate control not working.
        
    Next day delivery on the part means the car came back in the following day. One bolt, two plastic clips and an electrical connection later and the pedal was off. Gone are the days of the throttle cable. The throttle response is now done by a sensor on the pedal which works out how far the pedal is being pushed and tells the engine how to respond. It is clever stuff,  when it works.
        
    A pedal replacement on the Golf only takes five minutes and another clear of the fault code before taking the car for a road test. On the test drive cruise and climate control were checked as well as making sure no dash lights had appeared.
        
    Modern mechanics have become very computerised. Dash lights appear whether it is indicating an issue with the airbag systems, ABS or engine and diagnostic computers are so important to narrow down what the issue could be. I dislike the reliance that some workshops put on just trusting what appears on the screen of the diagnostics. It is still imperative that mechanics test sensors and look into live data to make sure that unnecessary components are not replaced and the costs put onto the customer, who will have to pay.


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